Setting New Abaya Trends & Styles
January 18, 2008 by delhi4cats
If you are just starting to read my blog, let me begin by identifying and describing the abaya. The abaya is the long black robe-like garment which women in Saudi Arabia must wear over their clothes. Wearing the abaya is not a choice but a cultural mandate and law of the Kingdom. Young girls need not wear the abaya until around 8-9 years of age although some families may have their daughters wear them as early as 3-4 years of age.
Abayas do indeed come in an abundance of styles and designs although in the Kingdom the majority of them are predominantly black. The abaya is worn to promote an image of modesty although there are also those who will say it is worn so as not to excite men who may then be unable to control themselves.
Abayas are designed to be worn “from the shoulder” or “over the head.” It is a matter of choice although most believe that a woman who chooses to wear an “over the head” abaya is a more conservative women. Abayas are supposed to be loose and unrevealing although some women have had their abayas designed to be quite form fitting. Other women will have them extremely loose, shapeless as well as dragging on the ground behind them.
The cut and sleeves of the abaya can be interesting. Naturally one will not see a short sleeve abaya. But one will see fitted sleeves, sleeves with cuffs, wide open draping sleeves and more style variations. There is also an abaya referred to as “wings” as the cut of the abaya is such if a woman extends her arms out from side to side, the sleeves are designed and connected as such it will resemble a bird or bat with its wings spread wide. The “wing” abayas look lovely when walking but speaking from experience are not practical when sitting in a car or a restaurant and needing to use your hands. One must be especially careful when getting in to a car to make sure all the abaya is in and not part of it still hanging out the door after driving off. And with a wing abaya it is virtually impossible to wear a coat or sweater overtop due to the conflict between the way the sleeves are designed and connected.
It is typical for women to have multiple abayas such as an abaya for everyday wear; one which is worn to weddings and special occasions and an abaya for professional wear. Each of these abayas will have their own styles and designs. One will see more women in Jeddah, which is traditionally a more open city, in abayas that are cut more like coat-dresses and more colorful and adorned.
In regards to setting new trends and styles I have to say that I am fortunate to have an open-minded Saudi spouse. For example, my everyday abaya that I like to wear and particularly with jeans and slacks, is a “from the shoulder” abaya which buttons all the way down to the ankles. It is designed more as a long “shirt dress” style and even is fitted with shoulder pads. Lastly and importantly for me because I take long strides when I walk, it has slits on each side measuring about 10 inches in length which makes it easier for me when walking. Due to the slits in the sides I can only wear this abaya with jeans and slacks.
I also happen to believe in practicality whether it is stylish or not. That’s just me… So, when the weather first starts to get cooler instead of wearing a lightweight jacket UNDERNEATH the abaya as many of the women tend to do, I chose to wear mine outside over the abaya. After all, in most cases a jacket is bulkier because it is meant to be worn overtop ones clothes and wearing one under the clothes just did not look or feel right. Secondly now that the weather is FREEZING here right now, I am making my own style yet again. At first my spouse looked at what I had decided to wear out and asked me if I was sure I felt comfortable with what I was wearing. I was fine and asked him if it disturbed him. He remarked that it did not but it was likely a first what I was doing. I chose to start wearing my “bedu robe” over my abaya when going out. My bedu robe is about the same length as my abaya and it is more comfortable and warmer than my winter coat. It is fur lined, dark in color although with some gold trim and subtle designs. There is also no way the bedu robe would ever fit underneath an abaya.
We went to our local Safeway market tonight with the temperature near the freezing point. Yes; my spouse and I both noticed glances and looks of surprise but they were quickly followed by a smile of understanding. Who knows…maybe I’ll start another new fashion trend here in my attempt to just be practical and stay warm.
And please view the following links for my earlier musings and thoughts about abayas:
http://delhi4cats.wordpress.com/2007/10/18/why-dont-abayas-have-pockets/
http://delhi4cats.wordpress.com/2007/10/18/additional-importance-of-the-abaya/
http://delhi4cats.wordpress.com/2007/10/18/culture-shock/
Many have asked about the significance and distinctions of the hijjab, niqab and why some women wear dark gloves. Stay tuned as that particular post will be forthcoming very soon.
Is it possible to go with coloured Arabic dress ?
I tried abaya once but the black is depressing .
I prefer Arabic style done with colored material .
Here in Oman some wear colored abayas, they’re nice .
In my observations, black remains the predominant abaya color worn. I at least have not seen women out publicly wearing a dress such as a jalabiyah by itself.
Again, one will see more abayas with color in Jeddah but less so in Riyadh.
I can’t stand the “off the head,” abayas. I feel like I’m in a straight-jacket. I can’t turn my head to slobber over all the hot men that pass me by. I’m in insatiable woman!
I’m *an* insatiable woman.
Geez, my typing today…
Maya — ROTFL! Enjoyed your comment! I tried an ‘over the head’ style once just to see what it was like and I felt my ability to move and vision were restricted.
Finally we’re talking Fashions! I’m all for black; almost everything I have is black. I love your idea of wearing your comfortable bedu-robe! Can’t wait to see if it’s going to be the new fashion in KSA
The ”over-the-head” style already makes me nervous just looking at it!
Why can you wear only slacks and jeans under your abaya with slits? Is a long skirt wrong? Or don’t you wear long skirts?
I’ve seen women in Kuwait (on documentaries) who had very tailored abayas, made with glittering black materials.
A-bedu: you once gave us the link to the DesertStore: they have at least one abaya with velcro. Two I really like: a really cool one with wide pointy sleeves and a square with beads on the back, and a moroccan styled one with hood. They are not expensive, I like them so much I’m considering ordering one.
Yes, all this concealment is probably really effective! I can remember a nineteenth-century passage about men going beserk after seeing the ”provocative hint of an ankle”!!!
Not mine unfortunately; that is still swayed in bandages and military boots.
And the other way around: I always think men look their best wearing cool black leather motorcycle clothes, and integral helmets with the visor down.
I could be viewed as too progressive (in Riyadh at least) wearing my abaya with the slits with a skirt as it would make my skirt viewable to others…depending on ones mindsight, even allowing a glimpse of jeans or slacks can be viewed as ‘too much.’
I actually do not mind the black with a little bit of subtle color.
I wore my bedu robe out to a gathering tonight and felt very comfortable and toasty doing so.
Sorry, I have more questions now. So showing a bit of skirt is too progressive, but showing a pair of (american) jeans is not???
I’ve been googling, there are quite a lot of coloured abayas about in other islamic countries, and also with a lot of embroideries. Some go to far I think. To messy in design. There are also serious designer-abayas. DesertStore is defenitely one with the best prices.
So what you need is an abaya with extra wide skirt-part for long strides, pockets, velcro-closing, and a hood, and why in these scary artificial materials? Linnen would be the best choice. I’m going to start a new business!
What were the reactions to your bedu-robe? Keep us informed how the fashion spreads!
An extra-wide skirt part for long strides … I wear extra-wide jilbabs and all that material actually winds around my legs while I am walking. Here in America (where I am at least) you can at least hike it up an inch or so in order to walk without tripping.
I just made a HUGE order of coffee and kitchen stuff from Desert Boutique. Will let you all know how it is when the stuff arrives.
Actually Aafke, depending where one is in the Kingdom or rather who one may run into, showing anything but the abaya can be more provocative! For me, I guess it is more a matter of preference to wear jeans and slacks rather than skirts so that is mainly why I do not wear skirts under one of my abayas…or wear skirts much in general! I do not mean to confuse you here!
Yes - there are so many variations and color and styles of abayas but again in the Kingdom the style leans more to the conservative.
Speaking of fabrics, abayas do come in a wide range of fabrics for the weather, seasons and occasions. I just wish there was a way to get away from the basic black during the hot months! After all the men wear white light-weight thobes then but women must remain in black opaque abayas!
Safiyyah: Sometimes going up/down stairs or escalators I’ve got to hitch up the abaya slightly to avoid a major accident. I’ve seen a number of times where women’s abayas get caught in escalators or under the wheels of grocery carts and it is a messy scene!
Yes; I know! I have fallen down the steps, up the steps, off the curb, Ya Allah, lol. I am more careful now, but sometimes it still happens.
Safiyyah, did you fall because of the length of your abaya? And as a result, did you ever consider shortening it or changing the style? I am asking these questions out of curiousity and wishing to understand more.
Thanks - Carol
Really long clothes are dangerous! Especially on escalators! I like my clothes long, and have also suffered in consequence. I’ve also fallen because I got stuck with my toes in long wide slacks or skirts. Long coats and stiletto-heels are a deadly combination!
So is one allowed to hitch up ones abaya to safe onesself from injury? Can’t they just be like ankle lenght?
Probably not.
Abayas didn’t use to be all black: re. old pictures. So this is a modern thing. So presumably it should be possible to change it back again. To force people to wear black overclothes in such a sunny and hot country is totally evil in my opinion. Or another way of keeping women indoors. I would go down on a heatstroke before I was out of the street. I already get sick if it gets hotter than 25″C over here!
My understanding that the black abaya and the style of abayas here in the Kingdom (and elsewhere) are many times based more on cultural mandates than religion or law.
I certainly will hitch my skirt or abaya up when climbing stairs or on an escalator. I have seen others do this as well to include the men in long thobes!
My all time favorite outfit to be out and about as well as comfortably in is the Pakistani shalwar kameez. I think they are among the most fashionable, comfortable and practical of fashions!